It seems incredible that in the middle of the 21st century, in Europe, a thousand people are isolated on a small island that does not exceed 27 square kilometers. But that is what happened last weekend to the residents and visitors of the Island, when a storm prevented Líneas Marítimas Romero from making the daily journey between La Graciosa and the Port of Órzola, in Lanzarote.
Last Saturday, at five in the afternoon, the usual boat set sail from the northern dock towards La Graciosa. What those of us inside did not know is that the next day we would not be able to return. The storm unleashed during those days in the archipelago has fully affected the state of the sea, leaving more than a hundred people who were visiting the Island during the long weekend isolated.
Tourists, visitors, residents of La Graciosa, students? A heterogeneous group united by a cause of force majeure. "We cannot go against nature," was heard on Sunday at the dock of La Graciosa, while dozens of people waited, with their luggage at their feet, for a response from those responsible for Líneas Marítimas Romero, the company in charge of connecting the route between Órzola and La Graciosa. Waiting and looking at the sea, with the hope of magically undoing the strong waves, was the only thing that could be done. Or not.
Because driven by desperation, a group of Italian tourists decided to hire a helicopter to take them to the Lanzarote airport. About a thousand euros per trip and six people in each one. In total, during Monday morning, three private helicopters landed in La Graciosa, thus rescuing about twenty tourists who had purchased tickets, unavoidable trips or even some business deals in hand.
However, most of the "isolated" had no choice but to wait for the storm to subside. The residents of La Graciosa are used to it, and even take this type of situation with resignation. "Every year there is a storm like this," explained Margarona, the local mayor of the eighth Island. "Once we were isolated for a week." The only way to leave La Graciosa in cases like this is by helicopter. However, the Civil Protection helicopter only lands on the Island in cases of emergency, such as illness or accident. "The problem is not the people who want to leave the Island," explained Enriqueta, owner of a guesthouse in La Graciosa. "The problem is if there is an illness, or someone breaks a leg, and they cannot be taken to the hospital."
La Graciosa has a medical team consisting of a nurse and a permanent doctor. If the doctor decides to leave the Island, another one automatically replaces him, so that they are never without medical service. However, although this is covered, there are other important elements in the daily life of the residents of La Graciosa, which are truncated in case of isolation. Supermarkets are emptying, and so are ATMs.
In fact, the director of the Caja de Ahorros Insular was outside La Graciosa during the long weekend, so the premises remained closed on Monday, and even, according to the councilor of fisheries of La Graciosa, Marcos Páez, the balance of the ATM was exhausted. As for food, supermarkets have everything necessary to deal with a few days of lockdown, although some remember old times. "Sometimes it has happened to us that we didn't even have a bottle of oil," recalls Enriqueta. "Or having to call the neighbor's house and say: 'Do you have a little potato?'" "The moment there is a lack of food or medicine, a helicopter would come with help," assured Margarona.
Many tourists have questioned these days the possibility of disembarking in a place other than the Órzola dock. "It is impossible along the shore," informed Federico Romero, skipper of Líneas Marítimas Romero, referring to the foot of the Risco de Famara. "And getting to Arrecife or Puerto Calero is also not possible, with the sea that forms there." The state of the Órzola dock influences when developing this journey with some security. "If it were closed, it would be much easier for us," said Federico, shortly after disembarking, after two days, in the northern port.
Adventure at sea
At eight o'clock in the morning, and for the third consecutive day, dozens of tourists, residents of La Graciosa and students were waiting at the dock of La Graciosa. Will the "Graciosero II" finally leave, bound for the Órzola dock? The boat starts moving, a good sign. People crowd, luggage in hand, around the entrance door. "Will we still have to go back?" was heard on the dock. "I don't know if I would go out in this weather."
Emotion and uncertainty. The boat starts up and the crossing of the Río is carried out without incident. As we approach Órzola, the size of the waves increases, and so does their intensity. When we reach the height of Punta Fariones, the "Graciosero II" rocks more violently. "It was dangerous but a gap was sought," explained Federico Romero at the end of the trip. "We were waiting for a while, to be able to enter, and in the end everything went well." A few minutes that were prolonged on the deck of the boat, where the travelers held our breath, waiting for the outcome of three days of isolation.
Responsibilities
For the moment, no one has filed a claim with Líneas Marítimas Romero. "What can we do if the sea does not allow us to leave?" asks Federico Romero. The transport service does not include any insurance or compensation for climatic causes. But the fact is that a hundred visitors have been forced to pay for accommodation and food for two more days than planned, and many have lost a significant amount of money on plane tickets, accommodation and work.
The Órzola dock
"If the port of Órzola were closed, it would be easier." In cases like last weekend, the conditions of this dock are essential to facilitate the docking work of the boats, as indicated by Federico Romero, skipper of the "Graciosero".
This work, which consists of the construction of a semi-submerged breakwater and a dredging of the area to carry out an entrance channel to the boats of three meters in height, has been planned for years, but, to this day, it has not yet been executed. During the presidency of Enrique Pérez Parrilla in the Cabildo, Historical Heritage issued a report in which it warned of the existence of an underwater archaeological site. However, last August, the Commission for the Environment and Historical Heritage resolved that there were no marine archaeological values in the vicinity of the dock that would prevent its expansion, so the results were taken to the COTMAC.
However, the construction of this breakwater has suffered several setbacks since it was projected and even during the course of the works. The choice of a maritime platform to carry out the work ended with the helicopter rescue of several of the operators. After this failed attempt, it is planned to create a land access that will be removed after the construction of the dike is finished.
In this way, this new dike would promote greater navigation safety, while guaranteeing the maneuvers of docking and departures of the boats so that the episode of last weekend is not repeated
Some "Robinsons"
Rosa Anasagasti
(La Graciosa)
Forget about them putting a helicopter here. After a long time, it seems that they have now focused on the Health Center, but there is nothing here. The children have not been able to go to high school and are taking exams.
Belky Luis
(Tenerife)
We had the plane to Tenerife yesterday. I have had to ask for a justification for work, since I had to join today. We have spent the whole long weekend here, and it is the first time I have come in winter.
Enriqueta
(La Graciosa)
Ten people have had to stay in my guesthouse for these two days, since the boat has not been able to leave. A helicopter is needed here for these cases. There are people who had plane tickets from Lanzarote and have not been able to take it.
Yvonne and Ernesto
(Madrid)
We came on Friday to see La Graciosa, and although we have had to stay two more days, we have loved it. The bad thing is that we had a car and a rural house rented in Lanzarote until Wednesday, and we will not be able to enjoy them.
Pau and María
(Barcelona)
On Sunday we had to catch a plane in Lanzarote, so we had to change the tickets twice, with its consequent commission. It is the first time we have come to La Graciosa and it has been quite an adventure.
Aarón
(La Graciosa)
Judging by his expression, Aaron enjoyed the waves and the rocking of the boat on the return trip ("This is better than a roller coaster!")
(How cool are the waves! This is better than the roller coaster?)
