La Molina de San Bartolomé, which dates back to 1870 and is a Site of Cultural Interest (BIC), was acquired in 1919 by José María Gil, mayor of the municipality at that time, who launched it to produce gofio in an artisanal way. Its current miller, Marcial Lemes, in an interview with the radio program Más de Uno Gourmet, explains how the milling is carried out to produce gofio with 100% Lanzarote grain.
- How do you become a miller?
I have always liked the Canarian traditions, so when I was offered to produce gofio, the main food of the Canarians, I didn't think twice.
- What did you do before?
I have dedicated myself to almost everything. I am a bit of a craftsman, I do a bit of clay, some leather, and I am also a plumber.
- How have you adapted to a project like La Molina?
When I started I didn't know if I was going to make it, because for me it was a bit complicated, but with practice and a little love and effort, I have learned a lot and the project is moving forward.
- What is the feeling of working with a mill that is more than 100 years old?
When I started and saw the age of the machinery I thought: any day the screws will fall off, but not at all, the old machine is the one that works best and it is very difficult to break. Little by little I got the hang of it and I loosened up.
- What is your main role as a miller?
My main role is to select the grain that they bring us, which is usually good grain, because it is from Lanzarote. And then make a good gofio, a fine gofio, with a medium roast, neither too light nor too strong.
- Is all the grain you buy from the island?
Normally it is 100% Lanzarote grain. This year we have several local farmers who bring us a very good grain, of very high quality. The grain that comes from outside cannot compete with the quality of ours, there is no comparison.
- I understand that the local farmer has benefited from this decision, is more grain being planted as it used to be?
That is the intention and the dream of La Molina, that the farmer returns to the field and continues planting, not only grain, but everything, but planting in Lanzarote is not easy, we all know that the rain does not come when we want, the haze, the winds... but the farmer, especially the old farmer knew and knows how to plant in these lands.
- Once the grain is selected, what is the process to obtain the gofio?
Yes, the first thing is to check that the grain is from here and of good quality. Then we roast it and wait from one day to the next for it to cool down. We have a cooler, but we have to wait a little because if it enters hot in the stone it does not come out the same.
- I understand that there are different types of grinding and grain thickness...
Yes, of course. When I started it took me a while to get the level to make a fine gofio, which had a pleasant roast. Now we have a gofio that mostly comes out fine, as people like it.
- How many types of gofio do you make?
We make four different products. Three of cereals, millet, wheat and barley, and one of legumes, chickpeas. Then there are farmers with small plantations who bring us peas, vetches, lentils, beans... and we grind and toast them, although they usually bring it already toasted.
- Can you make gofio from lentils?
Yes, during the time I've been here I've discovered that gofio can be made from whatever you want. I haven't tried the lentil one, but I've been told it's good. I've also heard that gofio used to be made from sweet potatoes. It was cut into pieces, left to dry in the sun, then toasted and ground.
- Gofio is the star product of the Canarians par excellence, the product that gave them the strength to go out to work in the fields...
Yes, it is the star food of the Canarian, although agriculture has been decreasing in recent years, but the idea is that it will rise again as it used to.
- How is the promotion going at local product fairs?
It shows in the amount of work there is, people are asking for more gofio. There is so much demand that sometimes we have to call farmers, who may not have come this month to bring what they have. Right now we have enough grain.
- La Molina also has a small museum about how it used to be toasted...
Yes, to the excursions that come we explain the origin of gofio and we show them how the old way of working was and also how it is worked now. In the courtyard we also have a pot to show them how people still toast the grain in their homes today.
- People who want to buy your gofio, where can they do it?
They can come here, to La Molina de San Bartolomé, located on the corner between Tenderete and José María Gil streets, who was the former owner of La Molina. We also sell our gofio in Spar supermarkets, in several stores and gas stations.
- Do you also have other products in the La Molina store?
Yes, we have gofio shortbread in several flavors: orange, cocoa and cinnamon. Then we have the Puro Legado gofio cream. In addition to Puro Legado, we also collaborate with other gastronomic producers on the island such as Bernardo.
