When the mountain learns to pray.
There are mountains that are geography. Others, history. And there is one, in the heart of Lanzarote, that every fifth of August transforms into an immense temple where the sky seems to descend a few meters to meet the earth. It is the mountain of Teguise, where Our Lady of the Snows has been waiting for centuries for the arrival of her children.
The day began long before the sun caressed the peaks. At six in the morning, when the early hours still held the silence of the night, the steward of the Sanctuary, D. Benjamín Díaz Villalba, opened the doors of the Virgin's house.
It was not necessary to announce it.
The pilgrims were already waiting. Some had walked for hours; others arrived with tiredness etched on their faces and hope reflected in their eyes. All sought the same thing; to stop for a few moments before the Mother to thank her for life, for family, for health, for those who are no longer here and for those who are still sharing the journey.
Because on August fifth, a small miracle happens that no one writes about, but everyone knows.
All roads lead to Las Nieves.
From Teguise, Teseguite, El Mojón, Los Valles, Caleta de Famara... men, women, young and old began the ascent with that mixture of sacrifice and joy that only those who have once peregrinated moved by faith understand.
And, as every year, from Haría departed one of the most endearing moments of the morning.
Around seven o'clock, a large group of neighbors began the walk along the historic Mal Paso path, proudly wearing the t-shirts that identify their pilgrimage each year. The path ascended to the Peñas del Chache, the roof of Lanzarote, where the island seems to open up completely to the eyes of the walker.
From up there, the landscape is impressive.
But it is much more impressive to see how, generation after generation, a people continues to walk the same path to meet the Virgin.
There is no wind capable of erasing a tradition when it is born from the heart.
The first Eucharists, known as the Pilgrims' Masses, were celebrated at eight and ten in the morning. Those who had completed their walk arrived, leaving at the altar their fulfilled promises, their pleas, and the hopes for the new year.
But it would be at noon when the Sanctuary would experience its most solemn moment.
The Solemn Religious Service, presided over by D. Leonardo Arellano Ramírez, formator of the Seminary of Venezuela, brought together at the altar D. Juan Manuel Molina, parish priest of Teguise, D. Rafael Tejera, parish priest of Tiagua, D. Leonardo José Graterol, parish priest of Tías, and D. Javier Sánchez, chaplain of the Navalcarnero prison in Madrid.
The small Sanctuary proved insufficient to accommodate so many devotees.
There wasn't an empty spot.
The pews were completely occupied, the aisles, the portico, and the surroundings of the Sanctuary overflowed with faithful. However, no one broke the silence.
It was one of those silences that speak.
Silence of prayer.
Silence of respect.
Silence of one who feels they are living a moment that will remain forever in memory.
The voices of the Teguise Parish Choir, directed with exquisite sensitivity by Dña. Milagros Herrera, enveloped the celebration with a beauty difficult to describe. Little by little, the voices of the faithful began to join in, forming a single choir, as if the entire mountain were singing in unison.
And, presiding over it all, She.
Our Lady of the Snows appeared radiant.
The delicacy of the floral arrangements, perfectly harmonized with the Main Altar and her throne, further enhanced the serenity of a face that seemed to contemplate, one by one, all those who had come to her house.
There was emotion in many gazes.
And also gratitude.
At the end of the celebration, the young resident of Los Valles, Oliver Martín Hernández, offered the Virgin a heartfelt poem that was born from the heart and reached directly to the hearts of those who listened.
The applause was long.
The tears were discreet.
Because there are verses that are not recited: they are prayed.
When everything seemed ready for the traditional procession through the mountain, nature wanted to write a different page.
The strong wind that blew throughout the day forced, out of prudence, the suspension of the processional route.
But the people did not go without encountering their Mother.
The bearers carried the venerated image with immense care to the portico of the Sanctuary, where the island and municipal authorities awaited, along with hundreds of faithful.
Then the emotion erupted.
A shower of applause, cheers, and expressions of affection for the Virgin as the wind stirred her mantles and seemed to want to join the celebration as well.
In front of her, the Teguise Music Band "Teguiband" performed a magnificent repertoire of processional marches.
Each note found an echo in the mountain.
Each chord seemed to raise a prayer.
Each applause was a tribute not only to the musicians, but also to centuries of tradition that continue to beat strongly in the heart of Lanzarote.
After the performance, Our Lady of the Snows slowly returned to the Main Altar, where she continued to receive visits from her children.
Before concluding the day, the parish priest of Teguise, D. Juan Manuel Molina, visibly moved, wanted to thank the effort of all those who had made that celebration possible, as well as the affection, the welcome, and the immense devotion shown towards Our Lady of the Snows.
His words summarized everyone's feelings.
Because that had not been just another party.
It had been a meeting.
The reunion of a people with its roots.
With its history.
With its faith.
As the sun began to lean towards the west, the pilgrims began their journey back.
The mountain gradually regained its silence.
But it was not the same silence as at dawn.
It was the silence of one who has witnessed something great.
Because there are places where the stone keeps memory.
Where the wind seems to pray.
Where generations meet without knowing each other, united by the same devotion.
And every August 5th, as hundreds of pilgrims ascend to the Sanctuary, the mountain of Teguise reminds us again that faith is not measured by the distance traveled, but by the love with which one walks.
Perhaps that is why those who return home do so with the same tiredness in their feet, but with an infinitely lighter soul.
Because after being at the feet of Our Lady of the Snows, no one returns exactly the same.
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