Gourmet

Pedro Santana: "When César Manrique came, he ate whatever there was, we formed a large family with the clients"

The Lanzarote chef reviews the history of one of the pioneering hospitality businesses in Lanzarote and invites you to the restaurant that inherited that tradition, La Cocina del Puerto-Casa Brígida

EKN

Pedro Santana, chef and owner of the Cocina del Puerto restaurant in Playa Blanca

Chef Pedro Santana grew up inside one of the most emblematic businesses in Playa Blanca, Casa Brígida, which, in addition to being a family home, offered food and lodging before the arrival of tourism.

It was a pioneering hospitality business in Lanzarote, where illustrious figures such as César Manrique, Pepe Dámaso, and Manuel Jordán often ate and stayed. In an interview on the radio program Más de Uno Gourmet on Radio Lanzarote, Santana reviews its history and invites you to the restaurant that inherited that tradition, La Cocina del Puerto-Casa Brígida, which he currently runs. 

 

  • What was your childhood like in Playa Blanca?

From my mother's womb, it was already known that a cook would come out. We had a lot of work, by the time I was five I was already serving tables with my mother. The history of Casa Brígida is more than 50 years old. My father was a sailor until he was 20 years old and then a fishmonger. He helped us prepare the fish. My mother was in the kitchen and dealing with the customers. My siblings and I helped in everything we could, which was a typical Lanzarote family from the old days.

 

  • What memories do you have of illustrious clients like César Manrique?

César Manrique was very kind, very affectionate. He came with friends from Madrid and they ate whatever there was. The offer was a bit limited, but we had seafood, clams, limpets...

I remember that Don Manuel Jordán took me to gather seafood with him, and he would come home and go into the kitchen. The client then integrated, we formed a large family with the clients.

 

  • What was the arrival of foreign tourism like?

The foreigners arrived and my mother didn't know any languages. My sisters knew a little, but they were more shy. My mother would take the calendar, give them the keys and charge them in advance just in case (laughs). And the foreign clients repeated year after year. 

 

  • And the moment when you took the reins of Casa Brígida?

We closed the old Casa Brígida at the entrance of the town and opened in Marina Rubicón. The day we left Marina Rubicón, the restaurant was full.

 

  • Why did you close Casa Brígida in Marina Rubicón to open in the Port?

It was very difficult for me, but after the pandemic everything changed. I asked myself: why so much sacrifice if I can be in another smaller place with more tranquility? The time I didn't dedicate to my daughters, I'm dedicating to my granddaughter. 

 

  • What can we find in your restaurant?

Traditional cuisine, although now we give the dish a slightly more modern touch, more current cuisine. Always market cuisine, seafood cuisine. 

 

  • What Lanzarote products do you include in your dishes?

We work with Lanzarote sweet potatoes, tomatoes, whenever they are available, fish... The primary sector of Lanzarote is a source of pride, but with the water problems, there are farms that have stopped cultivating.

Right now I am consuming a Lanzarote carrot, for which you pay more, because it is worth it. Its flavor is incredible. And the diner appreciates it if you explain where it comes from.

And with the fish the same. Even if you charge a little more, if you offer fresh fish, well cooked, with good olive oil... and accompanied by wine from the island. 

 

  • What are the opening hours of La Cocina del Puerto, do I need to book?

From Wednesday to Sunday. Now it's quieter, but towards the summer it's better to book, so you arrive with peace of mind and have your little table ready.

 

  • What do you think of the transformation of the island's gastronomy in recent years?

It has gone up a lot. Saborea Lanzarote has given a lot of visibility to the island and its gastronomy. There are many restaurants in Lanzarote that can be proud. In Famara, in Playa Blanca, in Costa Teguise, in El Golfo...