Photos: Sergio Betancort.- There they saw the Virgen de Los Dolores, the one they say stopped the eruptions of the volcano and to whom food is offered every year, which is then destined for Cáritas and other non-governmental organizations.
It is the great festival of the Island. It is the great pilgrimage and no one can miss it.
The purpose is the same and the process similar. Dress in the typical costume and start the long walk to the small town. Once in Mancha Blanca, rest, see the Virgin, pray to her, thank her, be moved by her imposing image.
The most festive will stay until the verbena, the rest will return as best they can. But the effort is worth it. It is a day of tiredness and suffering but in which everyone participates. Babies, children, teenagers, young people, adults and the elderly, with family or friends, no one wants to miss one of the most intense days lived on the Island. Then Sunday will be left to rest.
In his own way
If each teacher has his own book, in the pilgrimage of the Virgen de Los Dolores each pilgrim has his own rules. First of all, the schedule. There are those who prefer to leave at dawn. The sun has not yet risen, but under the stars it is easier to walk. With a firm step the road begins. From La Graciosa to Playa Honda, from Arrecife to Famara, from any corner of Lanzarote a group of pilgrims begins the march. During the journey they will join others and thus a constant trickle of people floods the roads.
Others, however, prefer to walk with the light. The views are more impressive and the hats, which may now seem curious, are very useful. They cover from the sun, as the old peasants did when they did the field work. Little by little they travel the same roads and, although fatigue takes its toll, the important thing is to get to the hermitage. Night comes and, although it seems incredible, there are still pilgrims on the trails.
One more year they have fulfilled this long tradition
They are the youngest and prefer the darkness to make the way. You can barely see and they are guided more by the headlights of the vehicles that pass on the roads. Finally everyone reaches their destination. Before their eyes the Virgen de Los Dolores dressed in her black mantle and her tears in her eyes. Many cannot contain the tears of emotion, of seeing the suffering face of their patron saint, of showing her their respect. One more year they have fulfilled this long tradition that has passed from parents to children for many years.
The good pilgrim must also know how to provide himself with food. The day is long for everyone and from time to time you have to stop to rest, being the best time to enjoy the typical Canarian products. Pejines, sandwiches, the wine skin or liquors are part of the components that the walker must carry in his backpack.
Supply points
The less prepared pass through the supply points. There they receive a bag with water, a sandwich and a piece of fruit. A place where pilgrims usually stop to rest. In the shade of the Farmer's Monument you can see many walkers. Some have been traveling the Island for hours. That's why they take the opportunity to take a break. Some say that they make the road out of devotion to the Virgen de Los Dolores. Others opt for the playful side of the party. But everyone has great respect for the patron saint. That's why after a while they get back on their feet. There are many kilometers left but each step means being closer to the Virgin.
The road is tiring but at the same time it becomes a party. Some groups join others. Unknown people share food and drink. There are those who have spent the night preparing typical sweets to share them with the pilgrims they find along the way. Others offer you something to drink. For one day the whole Island is united in its big party.
Common point
The arrival at the Plaza de Los Dolores is spectacular. An aerial view allows you to see a multitude of colors. Thousands of people are already in Mancha Blanca. They are tired and sit where they can. They chat and comment on the incidents of the road. Some have blisters on their feet but it doesn't matter anymore. The area is a continuous coming and going of people. Many congratulate each other for having arrived one more year to the hermitage. Throughout the day the doors of the temple are open.
A long queue is a sign of the devotion of the faithful to the Virgen de los Volcanes. After resting it is time to live the party. At noon in the stalls of the square there is not even room for a pin. It is the best time to regain strength and rest before the arrival of the offerings. Little by little more pilgrims arrive who join the party. Others take advantage of the time to see the fair, ride the little cars or visit the craft fair. There are fewer and fewer hours left for the climax of the party.
Applause for the Virgin
It is six o'clock in the afternoon. A few moments before the door of the hermitage has been closed to give the final touches to the Virgin. Many are already concentrated in the Plaza. Standing or sitting in the chairs arranged for the occasion, no one wants to miss the departure of the patron saint. The doors open and little by little the Virgen de Los Dolores sees the light. People burst into applause before their Virgin who is placed at the door of the hermitage.
Five hours of offering
The offering is not long in coming. Before the patron saint parade the floats of the different localities of Lanzarote. Dressed with characteristic elements of each zone like the candle of a boat or the palms and flowers come with neighbors of each town. They will be in charge of leaving their offerings at the feet of the Virgin. Food that will then be taken to Cáritas and other non-governmental organizations. The pilgrims stop before the impressive carving, make the sign of the cross and pray.
Others sing folías and other typical songs of the Canary Islands. In the continuous passing of people there are also folkloric groups that dance before the patron saint of Lanzarote. From time to time you can hear the applause of those who cannot contain the emotion of seeing the gifts that are made to the Virgen de Los Dolores. There are many who want to pass before the image. That is why the offering ends at eleven o'clock at night. For five hours people from all corners of the Island are in Mancha Blanca to pay their best tribute to the patron saint. After the act the Virgin returns to her temple from which she will not leave again until next year.
The faces of fatigue are visible on the faces of the pilgrims. Some go to see the romero dance. Others take the opportunity to have dinner and rest before a night of partying. The rest begin the way back, although in most cases they will use some means of transport.
Arriving home is synonymous with rest. Sleep looms over everyone but the joy is much greater. Within twelve months they will dress again in the typical costumes, prepare the food and start the road. It only remains to say one thing. Pilgrims. Long live the Virgen de los Dolores!